Everyone associates Putney with the Thames. It’s a neighbourhood that is almost defined by its relationship with the river, although perhaps those living up the hill in the direction of Wimbledon may feel slightly distanced from it. They are more oriented to the Common.
For me the ‘dirty old river’, with its ever changing waterscape, its spring tides that flood the pavements, is the feature. After all, for many years I lived at Kenilworth Court, right opposite the starting point of the Oxbridge boat race. We used to have parties to celebrate the annual event when the two eights started right opposite us, by the Star & Garter pub; then they rowed up upriver towards Barnes surrounded by a flotilla of spectator boats.
Should you visit Putney, I recommend you try the river ferry boat which runs all the way upriver from Woolwich and Greenwich, to London Bridge, Waterloo and then to Wandsworth and Putney. When you step ashore in Putney, why not go for a nice stroll along the river westwards, past the boathouses, and perhaps as far as Barnes? Or maybe you’d prefer a cycle ride all the way to Richmond.
If you are more sedentary you could walk a few yards and hey presto, it’s the Duke’s Head, a wonderful Young’s pub right on the river and a old favourite of mine. It’s a very large, spacious, bright, Victorian pub with a dining room overlooking the river. It’s on the Lower Richmond Road, which runs parallel with the river and offers a few cafes, restaurants and shops.
But the main retail and shopping goes on along Putney High Street, which hosts the usual array of multiple retailers, a cinema, tube station and overground rail service to Waterloo. Therein lies the only negative feature of Putney… the traffic and frequent gridlock caused by the bottleneck that is Putney Bridge, the southern gateway to the A3. Oh dear, if you happen to be driving, try and be patient and avoid road rage when you discover that you are unwittingly in the wrong lane and causing an international incident.
I recall the other, rather noisy feature, being the planes overhead heading to Heathrow but if you live there you get used to it.
Parks? There’s Bishop’s Park opposite, on the north bank, the Fulham side. Wandsworth Park to the east and Putney and Barnes Commons to the west. Slightly further away you have Wimbledon Common and the magnificent Richmond Park, which has the Isabella Plantation within it, and the famous herds of deer roaming around. London really is extraordinary in having so many green spaces.
Back to Putney, you will find all manner of pubs, restaurants and shops there. I recall a nice little pub The Bricklayer’s Arms, tucked away up the narrow Waterman Street. It used to have a Shove h’penny board, not sure if it’s still there.
There are lots of practical, useful shops in the High Street, places to get your phone fixed, dry cleaners, etc. If things aren’t going so well, there’s a Jobcentre and if that doesn’t work, there’s a massage parlour.
Of course these days you can check out where to go online but if you want a break from being glued to your phone, why not have a wander and explore ‘offline’? Isn’t it amazing how many different types of cuisine you can choose from? Wagamama, Five Guys, Franco Manca, Enoteca, Preto Brazilian Steakhouse, to name but a few. Crikey, in my day it was a two week old Scotch egg in a glass counter at the Jolly Gardeners.
The plethora of restaurants, cafes should suit whatever your preferences may be. I’m no shopper but if that’s what you fancy, Putney has its own shopping centre.
If culture is your bag, I see there’s the Russell Gallery, with some rather nice paintings for sale, in Lower Richmond Road. When I say paintings, I’m talking figurative works, which make a refreshing change from conceptual pieces.
Many famous people have lived in Putney (not just me). Clement Attlee, Richard Branson, Pierce Brosnan, Nick Clegg, Tom Courtenay, Thomas Cromwell, EM Forster, Grace Jones, Simon Le Bon, Edna O’Brien, Sidney Nolan , to name just a few. What a diverse bunch! Sadly, indeed tragically, Marc Bolan, of the unique rock band T-Rex, got killed in a car accident by the railway bridge in Gipsy Lane in 1977. There’s actually a shrine there.
If you’re into the history thing, it’s worth noting that St Mary’s Church by the river, was the site of the Putney Debates in 1647 when there were discussions after Parliament’s victory in the civil war about the political settlement. Moderates wanted to keep the king while Levellers wanted more radical changes including one man, one vote and freedom of conscience.
If it gets to evening and you’re still on a wander, you can then enjoy the stunning bridge lights and reflections in the water and the sound of the lapping river in its ceaseless ebb and flow.
